Cutler & Co
55-57 Gertrude Street
southern bluefin tuna sashimi
With newcomers like Cumulus Up in the CBD, gastropub fare at Builders Arms Hotel or the prix fixe menu at Moon Under Water and those lobster rolls at Golden Fields, it’s no wonder it’s taken me a while to find my way back here.
We start with a simple plate, a piece of loin & a piece of tuna belly. The loin was stunning (look at it) but the belly, was like silk. Gliding into our mouths, buttery smooth and melting just as easily.
golden chicken broth, rottnest island scallop, abalone & mushroom
A congee, coming to life with the clear chicken broth, deep in flavour, the grains buried by slivers of sweet scallop, abalone, mushroom and finished with bits of fried chicken. I have yet to find a congee that comes close to the earl grey congee I had at Momofuku Seiobo last year.
moreton bay bug, cauliflower, shellfish vinaigrette & mace
No marron for the day, but we had a gorgeously plump bay bug lightly curled, with a light cauliflower cream and pieces of cauliflower. We’ve really been rather spoilt in the month of June, with a marron from Brooks & that divine bay bug from Lakes Entrance at Loam.
hay baked carrots, goat’s curd, puffed grains & walnut // poached trumpeter, smoked mussels, spiced mead & nettle // smoked & fried duck, morcilla & gingerbread
The carrot, sweet with a musky curd and buried beneath puffed grains & herbs. Silky smooth trumpeter with nettle foam and fresh mussels. And the duck, beautiful slices of smoky duck, that divine piece of fried duck that just melts, and the morcilla with flavours of five spice, and a dollop of sweet gingerbread puree.
wood grilled beef rib, radish & sesame
Gelatinous & juicy, brightened by the radishes stained with watermelon, almost like slices of watermelon themselves.
apple & sorrel sorbet, fennel meringue & dill // earl grey ice cream, chocolate, pedro ximenez prunes & honey
A wonderful segue from a rich meat course to a decadent dessert. The apple & sorrel sorbet, light and pleasing to the palate, with crisp fennel meringue that melts and crunchy apple cubes.
The earl grey ice cream was beautiful, creamy milky with soft chocolate for richness. It is interesting to see how the dishes are familiar, yet quite different to when I was last here. Similarly, as wonderful as the night was, I found myself less entranced in contrast with my first tasting menu here four years ago.