74 Glen Eira Road
mustard greens, creme fraiche, lemon myrtle
I waited as long as I could for a refresh of Attica’s menu, but in the end I gave in, and though I adored the familiar courses every bit as much as I did the first time around, what I would give to experience them anew with wide eyed wonder. Especially as they have made their way into the 2013 San Pellegrino World 50 Best list this week.
Fresh from their garden, a simple way to start - the gradual heat from the mustard greens & that beautiful house cultured creme fraiche.
pine mushroom & walnut // blue mussels // shiitake broth
A familiar trio - what appears to be whole walnuts, is revealed to conceal folds of pine mushroom on a walnut puree in the half shell. The mussels are warm rough briny & gorgeously light in spite of the fry. And the clarity on that broth was remarkable, with the gorgeous garlic flower & greens from the garden, each one serving its purpose and making a statement.
The crab droplets, cool simple & sweet, and the sheen on the artichoke curls evokes a visual of stiff fish scales, yet tender to taste. To tie the two elements, the buttermilk - lending creaminess to the artichoke yet clean enough for the sweetness of the crab to come through.
marron & fermented corn
Plump & supple, the warm silky marron is shrouded in a slow creamy cloak of corn, rich with leek.
a simple dish of potato cooked in the earth it was grown
Compacted in earth and cooked for three hours, replicating the Maori Hangi cooking methods, this humble potato is a dark horse. Satisfyingly consistent in texture from the outside to the very centre, it’s pure comfort & warmth - like biting into rich fudge. The smoked goat’s curd, dusty with coconut husk ash & ground coffee, adds a musky richness to each bite, with textures of crispy saltbush.
cucumbers, sauce of burnet & dried river trout
This is what Ben Shewry does best. A most unassuming plate, yet declared as the favourite around the table. It’s light yet astonishingly rich at the same. All the other elements work together to balance the heaviness & the richness from the sauce, from the acidity of the cucumbers, there is heat from the pepper, the feather light peas, and the tiniest hint of the sea from the river trout flakes.
king george whiting in paperbark
Soft & buttery, with the paperbark reminding you of its presence by imparting a woody characteristic to the flesh of the whiting.
flinders island wallaby, bunya pine, chicory
The grass fed wallaby loin is rich, lightly gamey & fragrant.
native fruits of australia
An experience for the palate, with varying levels of sweet from the quandong, the rosella petals & the muntries. Both the dull sweetness and the cold sheep’s milk yoghurt infused with eucalyptus at the base is brightened by the bitter and sharp acidicity of the desert limes & lemon aspen.
plight of the bees
To finish, a spectacular dessert, perfectly composed. Your mouth is filled with gorgeous swirls and broad strokes of rich honey. As the lids are uncovered across the table, the table pauses at the intricacy of the freeze dried apple dusted onto a soft pumpkin sheet compressed with honey, mirroring the hexagonal wax cells of the honeycomb. The creaminess of the thyme honey & lemon custard is welcome, with bright bursts of fresh mango at the base, and lightness from the crisp fennel, thyme honey & lemon ice and those meringue shards that crumble easily and leave a lingering scent of thyme honey in your mouth.